This commment is unpublished.· 2 years agoWhy do they need maintenance? I'd this common for other pedals? I had a sweet of original Eggbeaters for about 15 years with no issue. I'm looking this up now because my v3 set fell apart on a ride about a year after I bought them. The warranty place said they needed regular maintenance.
This commment is unpublished.· 2 years agoHi Barnaby, these pedals do need maintenance. In my experience these pedals a service like this once every one or two years, depending on the amount of riding and the circumstances. You can check out my review of these pedals on https://mtb.guide/en/reviews/pedals/crankbrothers-eggbeater-3-long-term-review where I tested these pedals for 4300km and added an overview of the maintenance cost.
Watch the full repair/maintenance video below or check out more MTB related videos at the MTB Guide Youtube Channel. Below this video you find the video transcription.
The tools that are needed for this repair are quite basic. You’ll need:
- Hammer (Birzman Deadblow hammer on Amazon.com)
- Socket wrench with an 8, 10 and 14mm socket
- 6mm and 8mm hex wrench (Parktool hex wrench set on Amazon.com)
- Grease (Finish Line Grease Gun & Finish Line Grease on Amazon.com
- Clean rags
- Additionally a threadlocker like Loctite is needed, if you keep using your own endcaps, instead of replacing them with standard endcaps supplied in the Pedal Refresh Kit
- Optionally: a Torque wrench to torque everything to spec, but it’s not a crucial
- For Tread Contact Sleeves: a knife
- For Tread Contact Sleeves: a 17mm socket
- Parts used in this repair are the Crankbrothers Pedal Refresh Kit and Crankbrothers Tread Contact Sleeves.
First clean and remove the pedals from the bike to make servicing the pedals easier.
On these Eggbeaters I’m using Tread Contact Sleeves, that create a tighter fit between the shoe tread and pedal. If you are not using these you can skip this step and keep the small rubber bands on your pedals.
Removing the sleeves is easily done by using a knife and cutting them. I cut them for partial depth and then pry them off to prevent deep scratches on the pedal body.
Next hold the pedal body firmly and use the 6mm hex wrench to remove the end cap. For older Eggbeaters you might need a flat blade screwdriver to remove the end cap.
The nut is now exposed, which can be removed using an 8mm socket. Put an 8mm hex wrench in the spindle to prevent it from spinning and remove the nut with an 8mm socket.
The pedal body sits now loosely on the spindle and can now be removed, including the seals.
In the pedal body remain 2 bearings, one of which should come out easily. If not, you can use the 6mm hex wrench to push out the enduro bearing.
For the other (glide) bearing, you’ll need to place the pedal body in a 14mm socket, with the bearing facing towards the bottom. Use the rod included in the Pedal Refresh Kit and slide it all the way down into the pedal body. It’s a tight fit but it should rest now on the edge of the bearing. Using the hammer, tap the bearing completely out of the pedal body.
Now that everything is disassembled, clean the pedal body and spindle before we start putting everything back together.
Assembly of the Crankbrothers Candy comes pretty similar to the reverse of disassembly. If you found disassembly easy, then you'll probably feel the same about putting everything back together.
In the Pedal Refresh Kit you find 2 bags. The smaller bag inside is used for several other pedals, like the Candy, Mallet and DH, so we can put that bag aside. What you’re left with are all the parts that we are going to need.
We’re starting with the pedal body and install the new glide bearing. Place the tapered side of the bearing on the pedal body with a 10mm socket on top and tap it in with a hammer until its completely seated.
Additionally, this is where you install the Tread Contact Sleeves. You can off course skip to the next step if you’re not using these. Select the appropriate size of the thread contact sleeves and cut off any excess plastic. Check the orientation of the sleeves, since there’s a notch on the inside that falls in the groove of the pedal body. Place the sleeve with the notch facing towards the pedal body and press the pedal on it until the sleeve is fully seated.
For the other side, place the sleeve also with the notch facing towards the pedal body. It should only slide on the first part quite easily. Then Press the rest on with more force and use a 17mm socket to get it completely seated. You can soak the sleeves in hot water prior to installing them if the sleeves are giving you a hard time.
Now grease the inside of the pedal body, excluding the threads and place the new enduro bearing. Place the bearing in level and push it down fully with the 8mm socket until its seated.
Grab the spindle and install the outer seal and then the inner seal. Take note of the correct orientation. Grease the spindle, in between the seals, but not the threads.
You can now put the pedal body and spindle back together. Gently push the spindle in the pedal body without pushing out the enduro bearing. Place the nut on the end of the spindle, put the 8mm hex wrench in the other end of the spindle to prevent it from spinning and tighten the nut with an 8mm socket to 4Nm. At this point there is still play in the pedal, which will be gone when the end cap is installed.
For the end cap you have the choice to use the generic cap supplied in the Refresh Kit, or use your old, colored, end cap. In the latter case, add some new threadlocker like Loctite to the threads of the end cap. Install the end cap with an 8mm hex wrench while holding the pedal body firmly. Finally torque it down to 3Nm.
Spin and firmly pull on the pedal to check if there’s no excessive play and everything turns smoothly, after that you’re ready to install the eggbeater pedals back on the bike.